Meet the chef: Justin Wicker brings Spain home at Como Taperia
Credit to Author: Randy Shore| Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2019 19:00:06 +0000
Nelson native Justin Wicker started in the hospitality industry 20 years ago as a dishwasher. But his ambition and passion soon saw him be promoted to sous chef.
Since then, he worked for restaurants around the world, spending a few years in Australia, before returning to Canada and headed up Relais & Chateaux’s Clayoquot Wilderness Resort. Now executive chef and co-owner of Como Taperia, he is able to create dishes that remind him of Spain, truly his home away from home.
Q: What motivates and inspires you as a chef?
A: I’m motivated by my passion to please people. I truly always want everything to be the best it can be and anything less just wont suffice. When you see the looks of truly satisfied customers and hear their praise or excitement I feel as if we’ve done something right. My inspiration comes from the seasons, the producers and the bounty they bring us.
Q: How would you describe the type of food you like to cook?
A: Simple and delicious. I’ve always wanted to make fancy food ever since I could remember. … But usually only in a professional setting. At home I like to keep it simple — chef simple — pasta, paella, soups, burgers, and grilled meats. I don’t cut corners, I go all out with these items, but comfort is key.
Q: What might diners not know about you?
A: I’m from the small town of Nelson. People always think I’m from the big city. I’ve always wanted to travel and since cooking came into my life I’ve been around the world a few times living, learning and growing into the person and chef I have become today.
Q: Describe a couple of your most recent creations.
A: I just put a few new dishes on the menu a week ago or so: Charred Spanish Octopus, white bean puree, salsa Verde and smoked chicharron. Arroz Negro or Black rice with squid ink, with squid, prawn, dashi, smoked paprika tempura bits, and aoili.
Q: What’s your favourite local product and how do you use it?
A: I was very happy with Solefood Farms produce this year. I was especially happy with their heirloom tomatoes. They were probably the best I’ve ever tasted. I served them with sherry vinegar, extra virgin olive oil, pickled fennel, and grilled garlic scapes. Amazing products!
Q: If there’s one important piece of advice you might have for home cooks, what might that be?
A: Salt, fat, and acid are your friends! You need all these to make incredible tasting food. Always season as it bring out the true flavour of the product. Always use good olive oil, butter or other fat to lock in flavour and add a rich element. And buy vinegar. It is my staple at home and at Como.
Chef Justin Wicker prepares braised ox tongue.
You can find ox tongue at any good butcher shop, such as Columbus Meat Market, Windsor Meats, Pete’s Meat, and most T&T Supermarkets.
1 onion large chopped
1 carrot large chopped
½ fennel bulb, large chopped
1x celery large chopped
6 peppercorns
2 bay leaves
Sprig of thyme
1 1/4 cups (300 mL) Basque cider
2 ox or beef tongues
Chicken stock
3/4 cup plus one tbsp (200 mL) fino sherry
5 oz (150 g) cold butter
In a deep roasting pan, char the vegetables on high heat with a little cooking oil. When browned, add cider. Reduce by one-third.
Add tongues and herbs to pan. Add chicken stock to cover. Bake at 300°F (150°C) for 4 to 5 hours until tongue is very tender. Let cool in liquid at least one hour at room temperature. Peel the thick outer layer of the tongue and cool.
In a pot on medium low heat, reduce braising liquid to 2 cups (500 mL) or thickened considerably. Add sherry and using a hand blender blend in butter until emulsified.
Slice tongue to desired thickness and sear in a lightly oiled pan on medium high heat. Deglaze with sherry butter. Serve with either salsa verde, mojo verde or your favourite sauce. Add boiled egg, marinated white anchovies (optional) and celery leaves for a crisp garnish.
Makes 4 servings.