Exploring the Aveyron region of Southern France
Credit to Author: Dave Pottinger| Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2019 19:55:41 +0000
Tucked away in the southwest of the country, the Aveyron region is the enticing heart of rural France. Away from the main tourist routes, the region comfortably blends modern lifestyle with the profusion of medieval Bastide villages that dot the countryside.
The region is a mosaic of towns and villages that were established beside the numerous rivers, with fertile countryside in between for sheep or cattle to graze in lush, rolling fields.
It is a countryside that is made for outdoor exploring, with highways and byways, that make it easy to get around, and footpaths and hiking routes that call out to you.
Of course, this is France, where cycling is a national passion, and spandex clad cyclists of all ages are encountered at every turn.
No matter how you travel, it is hard to resist heading off down a narrow lane to explore a hidden village revealed by a church spire peeking above the rolling countryside.
The Lot river at Estaing.
Picturesque villages, like Estaing beside the river Lot, provide convenient rest stops along the way. With its UNESCO World Heritage Gothic bridge and iron cross, Estaing is a popular place for hikers and cyclists to pause as they trek this part of The Way of St. James, a twelfth century pilgrims’ path.
Villages that may appear a mere dot on the map can surprise with delightful cobbled streets, magnificent old buildings, and intriguing histories. The market square in the village centre is sure to encompass sidewalk cafes, for visitors and locals to enjoy a coffee, as they watch the world drift by.
Wherever you are, at noon, it is time to join with the locals for a leisurely two-hour lunch, in a small café along a cobbled street, or overlooking a village square.
In places, the rivers that traversed the region for millennia have sliced the rolling countryside with dramatic river gorges, leaving high cliffs that provide panoramic command over their surroundings.
Some of these formations provided natural defensive settings for a castle and its supporting village. Today, chateaux at Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, Conques, and Cordes-sur-ciel have become famous tourist destinations, as, with their ancient villages, they appear to linger high among the clouds.
Looking out from the castle at Cordes-sur-ciel.
A short drive from Saint-Cirq-Lapopie is the amazing prehistoric site of Peche Merle. Here visitors can take tours (reservations essential) into the recently discovered vast complex of caves where humans left pictorial images some 29,000 years ago.
Descending through a low door, the guides leads their small group down into vast caverns, where towering stalagmites and stalactites cast eerie shadows. On the rocks, are paintings and imprints that were made by our pre-historic ancestors. Here, a handprint made by blowing die against the artist’s hand; there, sketches of mammoths, bovids and reindeer; and over there, drawings of spotted horses that transport you back to the prehistoric world of the artist.
Located amongst the rural villages are larger towns that are also great places to explore.
The village of Saint-Cirq-Lapopie is a medieval village 100 metres above the Lot river.
Following the walking tour through the medieval buildings and cobbled streets of Figeac brings you unexpectedly to the Place des Ecritures. A large copy of the Rosetta Stone is set into the courtyard to commemorate Jean-Francois Champollion, the first translator of Egyptian hieroglyphics, who was born in Figeac.
Further south, nestled on three sides in the U bend of the Lot, is the ancient town of Cahors. Its rich history originated in the Celtic times some 2,500 years ago, before it became a major Roman city, five centuries later.
Today, Cahors combines a bustling modern centre, with a vibrant old town, centred around the beautiful Cathedral of St. Etienne, and the famous gastronomic market opposite. Recent excavations for an underground car park near the city centre revealed the remains of a Roman amphitheatre, with part of the stone walls visible today, on the first level.
Main Street Belcastel is situated on the north bank of the Aveyron River.
The city’s famous 14thcentury Valentre Bridge is a UNESCO world heritage site. Its photogenic span across the Lot includes three impressive fortified towers, plus the legend of a hidden devil.
For anyone seeking a quiet location, the tranquil riverside settings of Belcastel awaits. A little off the tourist route, this is a charming medieval village, complete with chateau, where visitor can amble along the historic street and enjoy the simple ambience of rural France.
Getting There:The Aveyron region is a pleasant four-hour drive east from Bordeaux-Merignac Airport, and about two-hours drive north from Toulouse-Blagnac Airport, both of which have regular flights from most major European centres.