Meet the chef: Jean-Claude Douguet brings his life's passion to Gotham
Credit to Author: Randy Shore| Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2019 19:00:23 +0000
Chef Jean Claude Douguet worked from an early age in his aunt’s hotel in Brittany, France, and knew that cooking would become his life’s work. After his apprenticeship and a tour in the French Armed Forces, he honed his skills over winters in the Alps and summers in St. Tropez. Today, Douguet leads the kitchen at Gotham Steakhouse & Bar.
Q: What motivates and inspires you as a chef?
A: When I was a young apprentice, my chef told me “If you choose to do continue this career, it’s the same as you enter a religion!” He was not totally wrong about it. Despite all the challenges, to be a cook is a gift, with your craft you give the guest a memory. As the great chef Auguste Escoffier said “ La bonne cuisine est la base du veritable Bonheur.”
Q; Describe the type of food you like to cook.
A: I enjoy cooking the cuisine of my home, Brittany. This area is well known for seafood — mussels, oysters, scallops, lobsters and langoustine — a great variety of fish as well and charcuterie, too.
Q: What might diners not know about you?
A: I am an active long distance runner. I strongly believe any exercise or sport is essential for your health and mental wellness. The challenge is to find which one you can dedicate with your busy daily schedule.
Q: Describe a couple of your most recent creations.
A: Recently I made a dish with some local strawberries, which were excellent this year. That was a strawberry carpaccio, with a strawberry vinegar gastrique and cracked Kampot pepper, garnished with micro sweet basil.
Q: What is your favourite local product and how do you use it?
A: I particularly like to work with morel mushrooms. You can use them in a sauce, with pasta or risotto. They pair well with asparagus and ramps when fresh in the spring. They are delicious in a casserole with garlic, olive oil, lemon, herbs and poultry. You can even use them on top of a pizza. For safety, always eat them cooked.
Q: If there is one important piece of advice you might have for home cooks, what might that be?
A: Try to use local and seasonal ingredients as much as you can. If one day you are not happy, stay away from the kitchen, otherwise your food will taste sad as well.
Braised short ribs by chef Jean-Claude Douguet of Gotham.
Mirepoix
1 large onion cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces
2 carrots cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
4 celery sticks cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces
Bouquet Garni
6 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 leek leaf
Ribs
6 lbs (2.8 kg) beef short ribs
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
¼ cup (60 mL) vegetable oil
2 bottles Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot
2 cups (500 mL) Ruby Port wine
10 cups (2.5 L) brown beef or veal stock
8 garlic cloves, halved and peeled
4 large shallots, peeled and sliced
1/2 lb (250 g) fingerling potatoes
8 shitake mushroom caps
12 chestnuts
Marinate the short ribs, mirepoix and red wine overnight. Next day, strain meat and vegetable separately. Reserve red wine. Season ribs generously with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven, over medium heat. Add ribs carefully and brown them nicely on all sides. Remove the ribs to a plate. Do the same for the mirepoix for about 10 minutes. Return the ribs and mirepoix to the pot. Wrap bouquet garni in cheesecloth and tie with butcher’s twine.
Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Boil and reduce red and Ruby Port wine by two thirds. Add wine reduction, stock, bouquet garni and garlic cloves to the ribs. Cover the pot loosely with aluminum foil and place it in the oven for 3 hours. To make the sauce, remove the ribs from the pot. Strain the braising liquid through a sieve into a clean pot with the sliced shallots. Discard the solids. Bring the liquid to a simmer and cook until the sauce is thick, rich and glossy. Skim the fat with a ladle if necessary. Taste for seasoning. Return the ribs to a pot, cover with the sauce. Add fingerling potatoes, shitake mushrooms and chestnuts. Return to oven for another 30 minutes. Transfer the ribs, sauce and garnishes to a serving dish. Serve with roasted parsnips, white turnips and carrots.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.