Old Budapest exists off the main boulevards

Credit to Author: Dave Pottinger| Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2019 15:07:59 +0000

This spring I booked a trip to Europe to revisit the wonderful cities of Prague and Vienna and this time I included four days for a visit to Budapest.

I was very surprised by Budapest, I had no idea it was such a very grand imperial type capital. Baroque buildings and wide boulevards divide the city by the Danube River. The real historic heart of Budapest is up at the Castle District and it takes at least a day to visit all on offer; from the stunning church of  St. Matthias to the National Gallery. It was very busy when I was there in late April with lineups for tickets everywhere I went.

Prepare to stop often for coffee or beer, sightseeing can be very tiring.

Because it is a daunting city to walk, I quickly learned the metro system and bought a Budapest Card, to get around. I found the excellent transport system very user friendly  and when in need I used the trams as well.

The Pest side, too bad it doesn’t sound more inviting, is where the stunning parliament buildings are situated. Nearby is the restored Great Synagogue and Jewish Quarters. Don’t miss the beautiful Church of St.Stephen –  the patron saint of Hungary. The Pest side is the commercial centre of the city and at all times crowded with throngs of young people from all over the world. Budapest has developed a reputation for good-cheap beer in Ruin pubs. Restaurants, coffee shops and bakeries selling the creamy confectionary beloved by Eastern Europeans are easy to find and always busy.

The main boulevards has the usual array of global shopping, but on the side streets old Budapest could be found. It was easy to find cobblers, laundries, bakeries and cigarette stalls – lots of smokers still there. Small shops up steep stone steps sold everyday items.The trees were in bloom and everyone was carrying great bunches of lilac. I enjoyed that side of Budapest because it spoke of different times and filled the needs of the local people.

The steam baths are situated all over the city and a must visit. I spent a morning in the Szechenyi thermal baths just opposite the zoo. It was close by my hotel in an old and somewhat dilapidated grand building. It was  crowded with bathers doing the pilgrimage to various types of baths from very hot to cold. White, slippery tiles covered the paths and steps and require careful attention when walking. The locals – mostly men wearing speedo’s are easy to spot as they languish in the thermal waters playing chess or backgammon.

Marie Bruce on her guided biking tour in Budapest.

I booked a guided biking tour for  half a day. This was a highlight but definitely scary at times. There is the odd bike path around and of course both sides of the Danube have wide biking paths, otherwise I followed the guide as he shot across busy, wide streets, dodged pedestrians on their foot paths and generally scared the day lights out of me. We rested and had cold drinks in lovely Margaret Island –  where the locals come to picnic and enjoy the fresh air.

I love the old churches in Europe and always try and take in a concert. St Stephen’s Basilica in Budapest has frequent concerts and is such a glorious church to sit and enjoy both the music and the surroundings.

For a change of pace I took the train out to Godollo Royal Palace – one of Hungary’s great Baroque mansions. It was the beloved summer home of the Empress Sisi.  For me it was a day in the countryside and an easy and enjoyable side trip. I was able to go there on the train with my Budapest Card and took the guided tour at the palace.

Budapest should be included on all European jaunts and combines well with Prague and Vienna.

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