Meet the chef: Masahiro Omori cooks with simple elegance
Credit to Author: Randy Shore| Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2019 18:00:16 +0000
Chef Masahiro Omori’s classical training, keen grasp of time-honoured techniques and eye for presentation are on brilliant display at Yuwa Japanese Cuisine.
Omori is a master of the traditional Japanese kaiseki style of dining and his menu takes his guests on a tour of Japan’s distinct regional cuisines and flavours using the bounty of local and seasonal ingredients available from oceans, farms and pastures throughout the Pacific Northwest.
Q: What motivates and inspires you as a chef?
A: My inspiration comes partly from being able to introduce new ingredients to my guests and then seeing them come back for more. Also, from the simplicity of Japanese cuisine.
Q: How would you describe the type of food you like to cook?
A: It would best be described as a traditional ‘Kaiseki’ style of Japanese cuisine that is minimalist yet refined, and I strive to emulate the changing seasons in each dish by using seasonal ingredients available in the region and preparing them in a way that best showcases the natural flavours of the particular fish or vegetable at its peak.
Q: What might diners not know about you?
A: In Japan, I grew up near the ocean, so I have a natural affinity for coastal cities like Vancouver. I live near the beach and I like to visit the docks frequently to look at the fish and smell the saltwater — it brings back memories of my grandmother who was a fish trader and taught me about many different types of seafood when I was growing up.
Q: Describe a couple of your most recent creations?
A: Some of the recent dishes we have been featuring at Yuwa include Halibut agedashi with mushroom ankake, grilled ayu (sweet fish) and dashi-marinated chilled heirloom tomato.
Q: What’s your favourite local product and how do you use it?
A: We have such an abundance of seafood at our disposal in B.C. To name just a few, we use Haida Gwaii Halibut for our agedashi, braised octopus from Tofino, local sole in our karaage. We serve Salt Spring Island mussels with sake butter and use local clams in osuimono and local uni for sashimi.
Q: If there is one important piece of advice you might have for home cooks, what might that be?
A: Start cooking only after you have gathered together and measured all of the ingredients, and ensure that you are aware of the temperature of the ingredients as well. Precise preparation is the key to success!
Chicken tsumire-ni, by Chef Masahiro Omori.
Chicken Tsumire-ni (meatballs)
1 1/2 lb. (680 g) minced chicken thigh
1/2 tsp. (2.5 mL) salt
1/2 tsp. (2.5 mL) ground pepper
3 tsp. (15 mL) corn starch
1/2 beaten egg
Mix above ingredients in a bowl. Set aside for 15 minutes.
Dashi Stock
3 1/3 cups (800 mL) water
1 oz. (28 g) Katsuobushi shaved dry bonito
1/4 oz. (8 g) Kombu kelp
Wipe the surface of kelp lightly, only to remove the dirt. Put water into a large pot and put the kelp and leave it for 30 minutes, then start heating water and kelp until air comes out of kelp and it starts to float.
When it boils, reduce heat and wait until temperature comes down to 175°F (80°C). Add Katsuobushi bonito flake and turn down the heat to medium. When bonito sinks down to the bottom of the pan, turn off the stove and slowly strain them with fine strainer. (Do not disturb the bonito flakes, which creates unwanted taste.)
Soup Stock
3 1/3 cups (800 (mL) dashi
1/3 cup light soy sauce
1/3 cup (80 mL) mirin
3 tbsp. (45 mL) sake
Oyster Mushroom
Bok Choy
Put all soup ingredients into the pot and bring to boil. Form the chicken into bite-sized balls and place them into the soup. When they start floating, it’s ready to serve. Simmer oyster mushrooms in the stock for 5 minutes with the chicken balls. Blanche the Bok choy separately in boiling water and squeeze water out to serve.
Makes 4 servings.