Galapagos Evolved: Land-based Pikaia Lodge embraces green living
Credit to Author: Dave Pottinger| Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2020 14:21:59 +0000
Pinnacle Rock, Galapagos – Several metres offshore under a gnarly black outcrop, among a kaleidoscope of fish I dove after a glowing, electric-blue-and-white-speckled specimen when a reef shark, two-metre-long, swam out of its hiding place in the rocks beneath me.
I have snorkelled over reefs in the Caribbean, the Gulf of California, and the Indian Ocean, but never have I been so enthralled or close to sharks, sea lions, turtles, and such a diversity of tropical fish.
The shoreline reef around Pinnacle Rock on Bartolome Island is just one site in the Galapagos archipelago that is teeming with marine life.
Maybe I should have expected it. It is after all the Galapagos. Land of Darwin’s Finches, Giant Tortugas, and Blue-Footed Boobies.
But, my goodness!
Sea Lions bark at me on the beach and dance with me in the lagoon. Schools of striped snapper, so numerous they take a minute to pass, don’t swim away as much as part around me. Marine iguanas strut past, and when I whip out my smartphone for a photo, they stop to pose chest out, like bodybuilders. First this side, then this one. Got the shot? Good.
Here, 1,000 kilometres off the Ecuadorian Coast, these animals has been sparking wonder in visitors all the way back to Darwin — who, the story goes, was able to catch shorebirds with his hat.
Preserving this uniqueness has been a priority for the Ecuadorian government since 1959, when it declared 97% of the Galapagos to be a National Park (and later a Marine Reserve), resulting in strict controls on tourist numbers.
Pikaia Lodge is a eco-friendly land-based lodge located on a tortoise reserve in the heart of the Galapagos Islands.
In late 2019, I was fortunate enough to be one of the tourists allowed on the Galapagos at Pikaia Lodge an all-inclusive land-based resort on Santa Cruz Island. In the past, visitors were forced to tour the volcanic archipelago via a “sleep-aboard” ship. But in 2007 the government allowed land-based tourism, which is a boon for anyone prone to seasickness.
Pikaia Lodge, caters to those looking for an eco-conscious adventure while relaxing in five-star comfort (amenities include an infinity pool, spa, personal concierge, and upscale dining).
“Ninety percent of our employees come from the island of Santa Cruz,” said Pikaia’s marketing manager Adrian Serrentino. “That’s 100 people with good-paying permanent jobs. Plus, on a boat, you rarely mix with locals, which isn’t nearly as culturally enriching.”
The first-class treatment starts the moment you touch down at the Baltra Island airport. Our group was greeted by a lodge host, a shuttle driver, and an impressively-knowledgeable guide nicknamed ‘Champi.’
On the way to the lodge, the landscape unravelled like a Discovery Channel documentary. While Champi cheerfully expounded on the Island’s history and ecology, I watched as parched dry cactus scrubland turned to misty mountain rainforest and then to manicured pastures.
The Galapagos tortoise is the largest species of tortoise on Earth.
Moving slowly on the slope in the grassy field in front of us were three Giant Tortoises. The resort is also a reserve, and these ancient beasts seemed determined to munch their way to the top of the 450-metre-high artichoke-green extinct volcano on which sits Pikaia.
Once a private cattle ranch, clear-cut of native vegetation, Pikaia was purchase in 2006, and staff has planted more than 11,000 native trees and shrubs which has helped entice the tortoises back. Every guest is invited to plant a Scalesia tree to aid in this restoration effort.
The Terrace Rooms at Pikaia Lodge offer floor to ceiling windows to enjoy the view.
Inside the 14-room resort, a large lobby and great room opens to the infinity pool and lounge deck that allows a 270-degree view to the surrounding jungle and ocean in the distance. The contemporary decor complements the Island’s volcanic origins with a mix of Peruvian travertine tile, Galapagos lava stone, and sustainably-grown teak-bamboo furniture.
My spacious suite had floor-to-ceiling slider windows opening to a covered balcony with panoramic views. Each night, I sat outside — mosquito-free thanks to the lodge’s higher elevation — and listened to the sounds of the jungle while I sipped a complimentary sweet golden liqueur Espiritu Del Ecuador.
At Pikaia Lodge guest can take a refreshing dip enjoy the spa, bike ride or just relax in comfort.
Indulgences abound at Pikaia: Rosita, the masseuse at the onsite Sumaq Spa, offers a 60-minute shamanic massage that incorporates traditional indigenous massage techniques using a heated “rainstick” rolled over your entire body. After a hard day of exploring, there is nothing better.
The in-house Evolution restaurant is just as rewarding, serving a gastronomist’s dream blend of traditional Ecuadorian and International cuisine.“We want to give you a feeling for our local flavours without overwhelming you,” said Executive Chef Norman Brandt, who sources most of the meat, vegetables, and fruits from the local community of El Cascajo.
With such luxury, you would never guess that the resort’s power mostly comes from solar panels and the water is recycled. The lodge is carbon neutral, incorporating things like a passive cooling and ventilation system, closed-loop rainwater collection, and many other green features.
The resort has 3.5 km of private trails for running, walking, or biking. You can even borrow one of the resort’s free mountain bikes. It’s a 20 km ride to the main town of Puerto Ayora and only 15 km to El Garrapatero beach, which is like a private sanctuary.
Pikaia Lodge has its own private yacht for guests to tour the islands.
Exploring the Galapagos, which can only be accessed with guided tours, is all about getting close to the wildlife. Over the course of my five-day stay, we navigated the islands on the lodge’s private 100-foot yacht, which has a hot tub, staterooms, and multiple sun decks.
On our first outing, I watched a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins as they surfed along side the bow, while a flock of metre-long Frigate birds followed us all the way to Santiago Island.
At Santiago, we explored an old volcano site, with Champi pointing out the minute ways that life is already taking root in the ropey black lava fields. Across the bay on Bartolome Island, we trekked to a lookout for a head-swivelling view of idyllic crescent-shaped beaches on one side and a barren brown volcanic moonscape on the other. At Pinnacle Rock we slipped into the teeming water in snorkelling gear for my close encounter with the shark.
The view from the Bartolome Island lookout to Santiago Island.
Back on Santa Cruz Island, we hiked the 2-km boardwalk through cactus forest to Tortuga Bay, a sugar-sand paradise where tourists and crusty-black marine iguanas compete for the best sunbathing spots.
Later we kayaked through the mangroves and saw scores of sea turtles, bobbing up and down in the water, vying for mates.
On a trip to the El Chato Tortoise Reserve we learned about the life cycle of Giant Tortoises, and how revered they are in the Galapagos (which is the Spanish word for tortoise). They once numbered in the hundred thousands, but have dwindled to just 20,000 today.
Recent efforts to protect the lumbering tortoise appear to be helping them recover. Champi says livestock fences have been raised to allow the half-metre-high animals to roam freely and severe fines enforce compliance.
Over the final two days of sea excursions, we cruised to Seymour and Mosquera islands, where we toured a colony of Blue-footed Boobies, and Magnificent Frigate birds, who survive by stealing food from other birds.
A young sea lion poses for the camera.
At Plazas & Sante Fe Islands, the oldest rocks in Galapagos, we watched sea lion pups nursed by their mothers, and snorkelled with Parrotfish, Eagle Rays, and a rainbow spectrum of tropical fish.
In the fish market in Puerto Ayora (pop. 12,000), the closest town to Pikaia, Champi told us how the eco-tourism industry has created demand for the sustainably-caught seafood that now dominate locally.
As we admired the array of red lobster and grouper on display fat sea lions and pelicans waited around, begging for scraps. Across the street a stray dog trotted by, paying no heed to the beggars.“Dogs are tolerated, but cats are totally banned. They are much more predatory,” said Champi. Like everything else in the Galapagos, it’s all about respecting the wildlife.
I could have sworn I saw the iguana sunbathing on the wall next to me nod in approval.
Bring sturdy boots.You’ll be traipsing over uneven rocky ground and a good walking boot will make your life easier. Aim for a low rise lightweight trekking boot (to support the ankle) with a thick sole (for comfort) and chunky grips. My Blundstones were ideal but running shoes will work in a pinch.
Don’t skip out on snorkeling. If you’re squeamish about underwater sightseeing, you’ll miss out on 50 per cent of the animals in the Galapagos. The shoreline reef around Pinnacle Rock on Bartolome Island is just one site that is teeming with shy reef sharks, giant parrotfish, schools of sardines, and many other fish species.
Wear long sleeves. You’re on the equator, so the suns burns your skin faster. My guide was wearing one of those long-sleeve safari shirts, and a hat with a flap that extended over the back of his neck. Don’t rely on t-shirts and sunscreen alone.
Take your motion sickness strips. You’ll be spending a lot of time on a boat getting to and from Islands.
Pikaia Lodge is part of the ‘Pack for a Purpose’ program. It encourages every guest to bring book bags, chalk, and lined paper, crucial supplies needed by the El Cascajo primary school.