Anthony Gismondi: Celebrating ‘The Pope’s Wine’ at Vancouver International Wine Festival
Credit to Author: agismondi| Date: Fri, 17 Jan 2020 17:00:07 +0000
France is the theme of the upcoming Vancouver International Wine Festival that runs Feb. 22 to March 1. Today we provide a refresher on Châteauneuf-du-Pape, one of the eight major French appellations that will be represented inside the tasting room by several producers.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a historic village located between Orange and Avignon in the southern Rhône Valley of France. If you didn’t know, Châteauneuf-du-Pape translates to “the Pope’s new castle.” It dates to 1308 when Pope Clement V, a former archbishop of Bordeaux, relocated the papacy to the town of Avignon in the heart of the Rhone Valley. Ironically, Clement V and subsequent “Avignon popes” were great lovers of Burgundy wines and did much to promote them during the 70-year Avignon papacy.
Back then, the local wines of Avignon were of little interest to Clement, who drank Pinot Noir, but his successor John XXII developed an interest in the local vineyards and varieties and is credited with improving viticultural practices across the region. Under John XXII, wines were tagged “Vin du Pape,” and soon after that moniker morphed into “Châteauneuf-du-Pape.” Oddly enough, much of the early Châteauneuf-du-Pape was shipped to Burgundy to bolster its colour and alcohol content.
It wasn’t until 1923 that the rules of production for Châteauneuf-du-Pape came into place. The original AOC rules allowed 10 varieties and were amended to 13 in 1936, and since 2009 the number is a hefty 18. Interestingly, no vineyards can be planted on land that will not grow lavender and thyme, both widely recognized as the markers of garrigue, a big part of the Sud de France terroir.
The producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape have always been intensely protective of their vineyard properties, so much so they passed a curious municipal decree in 1954 banning the overhead flying, landing or taking off of flying saucers in the commune. Three decades later, the order was immortalized and spoofed by Santa Cruz-based Boony Doon winemaker Randall Graham, who created an homage to Châteauneuf-du-Pape with his California red blend of Rhone varieties labelled Le Cigare Volant (the Flying Cigar).
Modern Châteauneuf-du-Pape has become a mostly robust, full-bodied red wine based on some combination of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, although, as mentioned, a total of 18 grapes are approved for use, including several white varieties. The defining grape is the Grenache, and many producers make their Châteauneuf-du-Pape with only Grenache offering a juicy, red/black fruit style that is easy on the palate.
The soils of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are a mix of pebbles and sand, and often the ancient river stones are all you can see on the surface of the land. The large rounded rocks or galets absorb the fiercest heat of the day and release it all back into the vineyards at night. The gnarly, twisted bush vines drill down deep into the sand to find enough water to survive the vagaries of the above-ground climate.
Robert Parker played a crucial role in raising the global image, the scores and the prices of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, much to the chagrin of those in the know who used to buy the rich reds for a song back in the day. Currently, the appellation has experienced many superb harvests led by 2016, 2010, 2009, 2015, 2017 and 2012.
The good news is local buyers have done an excellent job of getting a decent selection of Châteauneuf-du-Pape red sand whites into B.C. retail wine shops, with several vintages and producers on offer. Check out our weekend picks for a look at five promising Châteauneuf-du-Papes in, or coming to the market, for the wine festival.
Domaine Duseigneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape Catarina 2018, Rhone Valley, France
$67.99 I 94/100
UPC: 3385191000303
The Catarina label is a blend of fruit from three soil types — round pebbles, sand and limestone from three plots: in Colombis, Bois de la Ville and Grand Devès lieux-dits, near the village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. On average, the biodynamically farmed vines are now 60 years old. Depending on the vintage, it is mostly Grenache with less than 10 per cent of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault added if necessary. 2016 is a class act specializing in beautiful black raspberry fruit aromas and flavours with a smooth, supple palate and a fresh, mineral base. Caterina references Catherine of Siena, Saint and Doctor of the Church who travelled to Avignon in 1376 as an ambassador of the city of Florence and eventually persuaded Pope Gregory XI to relocate the Papacy back to Rome, where it belonged.
Louis Bernard Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016, Rhone Valley, France
$46-$56 private wine shops I 91/100
UPC: 604174001353
The word is out: 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is unique, so load up if you can as years like this do not grow on vines ( very often). If anything, they are more the result of divine intervention. Deep dark and fresh, this wine attracts you from the start. The fruit is bright blue with impressive creamy textures riding more fruit that seems to fold effortlessly into the round, silky tannins. The finish is long and complex with bits of tea and mocha coffee with a light dusting of pepper licorice and cardamom. You could either drink it now with any lamb dish or cellar through 2024.
Domaine la Barroche Signature Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015, Rhone Valley, France
$69.99 I 91/100
UPC: 3770011323005
The Barroche, “Julian Barrot Signature,” is fermented in concrete eggs and aged in foudres and stainless steel tanks. The mix is 62/18/13 Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah with bits of Vaccarèse, Clairette Rosé and Cinsault. It is a drier, firmer style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape packed with dark cherry fruit, black raspberry and stony minerality underneath. Youthful and will need some more bottle ageing to reach its zenith in 2022 and beyond. Still, a serious bottle you could also serve now with a favourite Ossa Buco recipe.
Paul Jaboulet Aîné Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Cedres 2015, Rhone Valley, France
$43.25 I 92/100 wine festival store
UPC: 3105712650158
Is 2015 better than 2016? Maybe, but either way, the wines are outstanding and a once-in-a-lifetime-buy. Paul Jaboulet Aine Les Cedres is a 70/15/10/5/ blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The vines average more than 50 years of age; the grapes are partially de-stemmed before spending a year in new and used French oak. Expect a wild amount of black fruit with seemingly endless purity and depth. It is youthful and mouth-filling, but there is a long life ahead of this red that finishes with a rift of spice and garrigue mixed with supple tannins. Drink through 2030 and beyond.
Delas Haute Pierre Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2014, Rhone Valley, France
$45.00 I 90/100
UPC: 3359950280312
There’s a richness and there’s generosity in Châteauneuf-du-Pape that is part of its allure. Haute Pierre is a big Châteauneuf-du-Pape, given most 2014 examples are not, with some tannin yet to shed, but it still falls within the modern camp with a nod to the past. The nose is spicy with a robust black plum scent, the palate similar, with an earthy, nutty undercarriage. It would be a perfect winter red with stews, casseroles or even chicken cacciatore.
Unmi Abkin and Roger Taylor could hardly be more tuned into the culinary zeitgeist with their new cookbook Curry & Kimchi. It is a veritable handbook for adding zip to your cookery. This curry stands apart from the old standard with perfumed notes of lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves and the addition of coconut water. (This recipe has been modified for style.)
Salmon and Green Thai Curry Rice Bowl
Green Thai Curry
1 tbsp (15 mL) cooking oil
1/2 white onion, diced
1 small carrot, diced
1 tsp (5 mL) salt
3 tbsp (45 mL) minced garlic
2 tbsp (30 mL) minced ginger
1 large stalk lemongrass, finely chopped
3 kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped (or zest of 1 lime)
1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped palm sugar
2 tbsp (30 mL) green Thai curry paste
1/4 cup (60 mL) lime juice
1/4 cup (60 mL) fish sauce
1 cup (250 mL) coconut water, without pulp
3 – 13.5-ounce (398 mL) cans coconut milk
Heat cooking oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. When oil is shimmering, add onion, carrot and salt. Cook until well caramelized, 5 to 10 minutes. Add garlic, ginger, lemongrass, and lime leaves. Cook mixture until fragrant and starting to brown, about 2 minutes. Add palm sugar and curry paste and cook until sugar is bubbling and starting to caramelize, about 5 minutes. Add lime juice, fish sauce, coconut water, and coconut milk. Lower heat and bring curry just to a simmer (do not boil). Simmer for 30 minutes. Allow to cool slightly, then strain out the solids.
Salmon
4 6-oz (170 g) salmon filets
Season salmon filets with salt. In a large skillet, heat 2 tbsp (30 mL) cooking oil over medium high heat. Fry salmon skin side up until golden, flip and cook until firm. Serve on a bed of rice with Green curry sauce.
Makes 4 servings.
A touch of sweetness in the red or white wine works well with this salmon and green Thai curry rice bowl.
The Ned Pinot Gris, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand, $18.99
We like the fresh, ripe, pink grapefruit acidity, and ripe nectarine and peach note to take on the curry and salmon.
Inniskillin Okanagan Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, $16.99
Juicy, spicy, black fruit flavours with a touch of sugar should be all you need to take on this tasty salmon dish. Winery direct.
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