Anthony Gismondi: Finding that higher quality wine at a fair price
Credit to Author: agismondi| Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2019 17:00:15 +0000
As the years go by, I am more and more attracted to passionate wine people for one simple reason: More often than not, they make excellent wine. It’s become a meaningful way to separate the ordinary from the special, especially at a time when wine prices in British Columbia have become wholly disconnected from quality.
The thing about passionate wine folks is they tend to over-deliver, and if you look past their most famous wines that rightfully command a premium price, often you can find a high-quality wine that over-delivers for its price — something you can’t say about the majority of wines currently sold in B.C.
Given the markup, taxes and hefty retail margins that weigh down the price of every bottle of wine in B.C., I expect to see consumers lying on the ground in liquor stores and restaurants injured by runaway prices. We do know high prices are pushing many to drink less wine across North America in favour of the likes of craft beer, spirits and the burgeoning beverage market.
Today we searched for some examples that may help you enjoy a bottle of higher quality wine at a fairer price.
First up is Jean Claude Mas. The many wines of Domaines Paul Mas hail from the Languedoc, but none offers more value than the Arrogant Frog lineup. The studious Mas takes his winemaking a lot more seriously than he takes life, and the result is a sort of New World mentality imposed on Old World vineyards. Check out the latest vintage of the not so arrogant Arrogant Frog Ribet Red Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot ($12.99). The almost equal blend of Cabernet and Merlot grapes is grown between the Mediterranean Sea and the Hérault Valley, and is a passionate, fragrant, balanced, everyday red.
One of the kings of Spanish wine is Miguel Torres. Torres leads the wine world in working to halt climate change while making a lot of site-specific wines that rank at or near the top of their class. His gift to British Columbia is Torres Sangre de Toro Original ($12.99), a soft, round, easy-sipping Cariñenaand Garnacha blend from Catalunya. Decant for effect.
Winemaker Axel Heinz, with Le Volte 2016, has blended Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon into what is a mini, super-Tuscan at an eighth of the price at Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia.
Australian wine icon Penfolds is synonymous with winemaker Peter Gago, whose middle name should be passion. The remarkable Penfolds Grange sells for $1,000, but the bargain is Penfolds 2017 Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet ($18.29). I was privileged to taste every Koonunga Hill vintage back to 1976 in New York for their retrospective Rewards of Patience publication, and it’s clear this wine is unique in its ability to age effortlessly.
Winemaker Axel Heinz lives and breathes the terroir of his Italian hillsides at Bolgheri, home to his highly touted Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia and Masseto wines. But the trick with passionate producers is to check out their entry wines such as Le Volte 2016 ($32.99). Heinz has blended Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon into what is a mini, super-Tuscan at an eighth of the price.
Another Italian powerhouse based in Florence and environs is the Antinori family, now run by the 26th generation. The Antinori Tuscan superstars are Solaia and Tignanello, and they have the prices to support that moniker, but the bargain is the Pèppoli 2016 Chianti Classico ($26.99). Peppoli is a modern look at Chianti Classico mixing Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Colorino, Merlot that will have broad appeal thanks to an exceptional vintage.
Closer to home, Mission Hill exudes passion under founder/owner Anthony von Mandl. The goal to make its Reserve Series available across the country is highly admirable. Each of the wines in the series seems a bargain to me. One to look for is the Mission Hill 2018 Reserve Meritage White ($21.99) grown on two estate vineyards in Oliver, with more than 60 unique individual blocks.
Passion comes in many shapes and colours in the wine business, but the biggest and best is still inside the bottle, exactly where it should be.
Van Westen Vineyards Viognier 2017, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley
$25.00 I 88/100
UPC: 626990055747
The Viognier vines are closing in on 15 years at both the Orlando and Granite Ridge Vineyards along the Naramata Bench. The winery barrel ferments the fruit in six to 10-year-old neutral French oak barrels for five months. The result is a fuller, lush style with plenty of peach and apricot fruit with a touch of lime. Near the end, some mineral, floral honeysuckle notes linger. Despite its ripe fruit, the style is tightening up and showing restraint. Serve with lamb tagine with apricots.
Torres Sangre de Toro Original N/V, Penedès, Catalunya, Spain
$11.99 I 87/100
UPC: 08410113003294
The Sangre de Toro, a blend of Grenache and Carignan, spends a quick six months in American and French oaks to round out the edges and is a ready-to-drink mix of dark fruits and dried herbs with a light dusting of licorice and curry. Smooth and round, it is a midweek red perfect for stews, meaty pizzas, grilled chicken, meat pies — the list is endless.
Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet Shiraz 2017, South Eastern Australia
$19.49 I 88/100
UPC: 09310297010905
Surprisingly fresh and red-fruited, it jumps from the glass with peppery, plummy fruit nose. Crafted through blending, it appears this label is moving away from the ripe black fruit toward a cool-climate version. Long and soft, its raspberry/chocolate finish solidifies the structure and acidity and appeal of a wine that will age a decade or more. The 77/23 blend of Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon represents the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Padthaway, Langhorne Creek and Coonawarra.
Mission Hill Reserve Pinot Noir 2017, Okanagan Valley
$27.99 I 88/100
UPC: 776545980144
The Reserve Pinot comes off 77 per cent estate vineyards in Lakeshore, with the remainder coming from the Naramata Bench. It spends a generous 11 months in French oak and is currently projecting a thin, tight profile laced with red fruits and smooth, smoky tannins. I love the restraint here, allowing the red fruit and dried herbs to carry the back end finishing little less fat and drier than most. Pork chops, mushrooms or soft cheeses work here. It should improve more in the bottle if you can wait.
Le Volte dell’ Ornellaia Merlot – Sangiovese – Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Tuscany, Italy
$32.99 I 91/100
UPC: 00818201020235
Le Volte is Bolgheri-based Ornellaia’s entry-level red, a 67/20/13 Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon mix. Ornallaia director of wines Axel Heinz is all about creating wines with generosity, structure and complexity, reflecting the philosophy of Ornellaia, and the team nailed it in 2016. Made from distinct soil types marine (sedimentary deposit from the sea), alluvial (marly, sandy clays with mineral veins), and volcanic (schist, gravel and porous soils), the varieties are fermented separately in small steel tanks before aging 10 months, partly in used Orellaia barriques and cement tanks. Expect a savoury, inviting rich fruit nose with notes of blackberry and blackcurrant that spill onto the palate with spice and freshness. A serious bottle of Volte that will over-deliver. Fine value.
Hong Kong is the ultimate city for food nerds, with some of the world’s most ancient and ultramodern cuisines. Born in Malaysia and trained in France, chef Tony Tan takes you, dear reader, on a culinary tour in his new book Hong Kong Food City. The recipes — from delicate dim sum to sensational seafood preparations — respect tradition and nature. This raw kingfish recipe can easily be made with sustainable sushi-grade tuna.
4 oz (114 g) jicama, finely chopped
9 oz (250 g) kingfish, thinly sliced
Sea salt, to taste
Micro coriander leave, to garnish
Shiso leaves, to garnish
1 tbsp (15 mL) toasted sesame seeds
Dill, to garnish
Fennel confit
2 small fennel bulbs
2 cups (500 mL) extra virgin olive oil
2 whole star anise
Soy and ginger dressing
3 tbsp (45 mL) white balsamic
½ tsp (2.5 mL) lemon juice
1 tsp (5 mL) yuzu juice
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 tsp (5 mL) lemon oil
1 tsp (5 mL) sesame oil
2 tsp (10 mL) finely grated ginger
2/3 cup (160 ml) extra virgin olive oil
To make the fennel confit, cut the fennel into ¼-inch (5-mm) dice and put into a saucepan with the extra virgin olive oil, star anise and a pinch of salt. Cook over low heat until the fennel is tender but still firm (15–20 minutes). Leave to cool in the oil.
Drain the fennel and put 2/3 cup (160 mL) in a bowl with the jicama. Season with salt and pepper and mix well.
Arrange the sliced kingfish on a plate. Season lightly with sea salt, spread the jicama and fennel over the top and sprinkle with micro coriander and shiso. Mix together the dressing ingredients, season with salt and spoon 1/4 cup (60 mL) of dressing over everything. Finish with a sprinkling of sesame seeds.
Makes 4 servings.
My first instinct is to pair delicate with delicate when it comes to fish carpaccio. The fennel gives you a little wriggle room for intensity; think Sauvignon or Pinot Blanc.
Mayhem Pinot Blanc 2018, Okanagan Valley, $15.65
You will love the fresh, pristine Okanagan fruit dusted in scrubby desert notes and flecked with pear, apricot, and lime rind. Carpaccio, anyone?
Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc Charlotte’s Home 2017, Sonoma County, Calif., $23.99
Tastes of citrus and baked fruit cobbler with a zig of freshly chopped herbs while zesty acid does keep it fresh and juicy enough to take on the fennel.
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