Israel’s flourishing food scene
Credit to Author: Dave Pottinger| Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 18:31:21 +0000
A culinary revolution is taking place in Israel. You can see it in the busy bistros and bustling markets of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. And in the foodie tours and home-based workshops of the Galilee region where, in places like kibbutz Lotem, organic wines are made at the Winery and award-winning cheeses produced at boutique dairy farm Shirat Roim.
The result of all this activity is a country whose gastronomical scene now makes it one of the world’s new dining hotspots.
Young Israeli chefs who have fanned out across the globe are returning to the motherland bringing with them culinary delights from other cultures, says David Kishke, a well-known Israeli culinary expert who runs Yulia Restaurant at the Tel Aviv Port.
And Jerusalem born Yotam Ottolenghi, who now lives in London, has said his multi-ethnic meals have helped many tourists come to associate Israel not only with God and the conflict with the Palestinians but with fine dining.
Freshly ground spices at Tavlinsky in Tel Aviv.
This land of almond milk and date honey is also becoming known as one of the most vegan countries in the world, with one of the highest percentages of vegans globally, an estimated five to eight per cent of the population. Thirteen per cent are vegetarians.
With the most vegans per capita, Israel’s vegan food options are plenty and nearly all restaurants have vegan options. Pizza chain Dominos offers vegan cheese at all outlets in the country. And vegan soldiers in Israel’s Defense Force are provided with vegan meals and leather-free boots and helmets.
Whether you’re vegetarian, vegan or not, you will find incredible food throughout Israel.
Trendy Tel Aviv
Cosmopolitan Tel Aviv is buzzing on the food front. Not only is it known as one of the vegan capitals of the world, Tel Aviv was also recognized by Conde Nast Traveler in 2016 as the “world’s best vegetarian food destination.”
Local gems, such as falafel and tahini, are naturally vegan, as is hummus, the creamy chickpea dip that is still the cornerstone of Israeli cuisine.
“They have a word to describe eating it in Hebrew which means wipe,” explains Kishke. “We say let’s go wipe hummus. It’s now become a verb in Israeli culture.”
Bourekas at the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv.
At bustling Shuk Ha Carmel, you can wipe hummus at Magen David, where the dish is served in a former synagogue. Hummus worship at its best.
A culinary tour of the huge open-air market unveils a bounty of other traditional products. At Bourekas, parcels of flakey dough stuffed with savory ingredients, an Israeli classic, will help power you through the busy stalls of the shuk (Israeli market). Wash them down with a brew from Beer Bazaar which features 80 craft beers from microbreweries around Israeli.
Outside the market on Levinsky Street, Tavlinsky is a treasure trove of freshly ground spices, medicinal plants, teas, coffees, oils, nuts and dried fruits – perfect gifts to bring back for yourself or the gourmand on your list.
In the city with more than 400 vegan or vegetarian eateries, Meshek Barzilay is a pioneer. The innovative farm-to-table restaurant is one of Israel’s leading organic vegetarian eateries. Nestled between the galleries and boutiques of Tel Aviv’s artsy Neve Tzedik neighbourhood, Meshek Barzilay serves Caprese salads layered with watermelon, tomato and almond mozzarella with basil cream; arancini stuffed with spinach and macadamia milk cream; and mouth-watering vegan burgers that make even carnivores drool. Cooking classes, led by personalities from the food community, are also available.
The bar seen from above at Fantastic in Tel Aviv’s Port and Blue Hotel.
Across town, near the Tel Aviv Port, a unique experience awaits at the whimsical Fantastic at the Port and Blue Hotel. The Alice-in-Wonderland inspired, non-kosher cocktail bar and restaurant is divided into three unique zones – ballroom, tearoom and lounge – accessed behind a secret doorway and down a dark hallway draped in velvet curtains. Once down the veritable rabbit hole you arrive in another world – the outdoor patio sits under a canopy of pink and green trees where fanciful cocktails are served in colourful glasses by servers channeling Lewis Carrol. Fantastic indeed.
Gems of Jerusalem
The jewel of Israel is Jerusalem. Rich in history, architecture, art and religion – with most of the world’s religions represented here – there is no place like it in the world. The energy of the city and warmth of the local Jerusalemite culture can be profoundly felt, and many visitors form a connection with the city that locals call “Jerusalem Fever.”
Jerusalem’s bustling Mahane Yehuda market.
To get a true flavour, stroll through the historic Mahane Yehuda Market. The beautiful covered shuk, hopping with Jerusalemites and tourists alike, is the heart of the city. Colourful vendors, calling out prices to passersby, add to the bustle. Friday mornings are particularly busy as shoppers stock up for Shabbat – the sound of a bugle in the afternoon signifies the early closing of the market for the Sabbath. At night the shuk comes alive with bars, restaurants and live music.
The Rooftop Outdoor Lounge and Restaurant is also a night time hotspot. The terrazzo-style brasserie affords panoramic views of the majestic Old City from its perch on the top floor of the beautiful Mamilla Hotel. Part of the Leading Hotels of the World (LHW) collection, the fashionable hotel and its adjoining shopping complex were designed by the world-renowned Israeli-Canadian architect Moshe Safdie, whose works include Vancouver’s Public Library. Here, head chef Simone Shapiro uses fresh ingredients to create plates influenced by simple Mediterranean cooking. Lamb comes in a cassoulet of artichokes and apricot chutney; gnocchi is punched up with eggplant caviar, tomatoes confit, mushroom and Turkish spinach; and Duck in a Blanket nudges closer to Asia with flavours of coriander, teriyaki and ginger.
Chef Moshe Basson dishes up makluba at his Eucalyptus. Restaurant.
For a truly memorable experience, have a meal of biblical proportion at Eucalyptus.
Set in an ancient stone building in the Artist Quarter, a stone’s throw from the magnificent walls of the Old City, this kosher restaurant combines a magical setting with a modern interpretation of biblical cuisine. Executive chef and owner Moshe Basson’s culinary journey traces Jerusalem’s heritage back to the bible. His ‘biblical’ tasting menus incorporate centuries-old recipes using local spices and wild herbs that grow in the surrounding hills. Fattoush is flavoured with sumac, mint and wood sorrel; Jerusalem artichoke spiked with almond cream and served in an espresso glass as part of a trio of soup; and falafel is reimagined with fish and coconut milk. Request a table on the huge terrace under a canopy of twinkling lights to take in the setting sun, reflected every evening on the gleaming Jerusalem stone of the city’s walls.
Druze hospitality at the home of Ebtesam Faris in the Galilee region.
Home cooking
For an authentic home-cooked meal, head north to the Druze village of Hurfeish in the Galilee region to experience Druze hospitality in a private home. Learn to cook traditional dishes at a food workshop in the kitchen of Ebtesam Farida, then sit down to enjoy the fruits of your labour in a meal, served family-style at your host’s table. A true cultural experience.
The writer travelled as a guest of the Israel Ministry of Tourism, who neither reviewed nor approved this article before publication.