Whistler is action packed in the fall
Credit to Author: Dave Pottinger| Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:37:19 +0000
“Did we see four bears, and a marmot, or the same two bears twice,” asked my 6-year-old son?
What activity had been the most fun: zip-lining in the forest, the RZR Tour (off-road buggies), Vallea Lumina or was it seeing black bears from the Blackcomb Gondola? The answers went round and round as we drove home from Whistler.
Lost in the shuffle was the marmot, which my daughter described as “white and brown and the size of a big tabby cat. It looks like a beaver with out the buck teeth and flat tail.” It will always play second fiddle to seeing bears, which caused the children to break out an impromptu dance on the gondola.
One of the black bears we saw from the Blackcomb Gondola.
But seeing the bears did have one negative; my daughter refused to go on our planned alpine hike. “We might run into a bear,” she said.
The Blackcomb Gondola which opened last December starts from the Upper Village and sweeps up 1,860 metres over a distance of almost 4 km providing a bird’s eye view of the valley below. (In winter the Blackcomb Gondola connects with the Peak to Peak Gondola to form a 13.5 km loop.)
“Even when you think you are at the top – it keeps on going,” Tania Sear of Tourism Whistler told us, and she was right, the gondola continued to rise well past what had looked like the top when we embarked.
I was in Whistler to find out what fall activities there are at the largest ski resort in North America when there’s no snow. I thought it would be shoulder season, but Whistler hasn’t had a shoulder season in a long time, said Tania. There are less people in the village, but there’s more people out and about in the area. Whistler has become an all-season adrenaline junkie’s playground, as well as a year-round family destination.
There are so many activities to choose from: tree-top adventure courses, mountain biking, museums, ATV tours, canoeing, rafting, farmer’s markets, hiking, spas, festivals, axe throwing, carving, bear viewing tours. There was no way I would going to fit it all in in three days, so we made the decision to go for the adrenaline-inducing adventures the first two days and cultural experiences on our last day.
Nita Lake Lodge & Spa is Whistler’s only lakeside property and only 500 metres from the base of Whistler Mountain and the Creekside gondola.
We scored a stay at Nita Lake Lodge – the only resort in Whistler that is located right on a lake. If you look at their pictures online and the marketing promos you’ll be fooled into thinking Nita Lake Lodge is a secluded hideaway in a remote forest. It’s not; it just feels that way. The lodge is just a five minutes drive (or take the free lodge shuttle) to the village.
As soon as we opened the door to our suite we were captivated by the view of Nita Lake – unpacking would have to wait.
Floor-to-ceiling windows show off the lake surrounded by forested mountains. And now that we were pressed up against the window we could see a young couple, casually paddling a canoe whenever the mood struck them. From everywhere, including the first-floor soaker tub and the sofa in front of the basalt fireplace, in the two-level 1,060 square foot suite, the view dominates.
A guest soaking in the hot tub at Nita Lake Lodge.
It was hard to find the get-up-and-go to leave the suite, but we had to. I think other guests had the same struggle as the hotel was quiet, except for the lounge in the evenings. The few people we saw in the halls were wrapped up in the lodge-provided white robes – presumably on their way to or from the spa or hot tub.
We loved the heated-plunge pool, the outdoor dining area, and the walking and bike path just outside the back door. Amenities include a full-service organic spa, a gym, complimentary bike, canoe, kayak and paddleboard rentals. And the free shuttle to the village from morning to night.
You don’t have to leave the lodge to sample world-class cuisine. Their in-house restaurant Aura, and Cure Lounge & Patio share the same menu and offer a $39 3-course dinner; try the braised lamb shank with gremolata.
Nita Lake Lodge was named in the top five resorts in Canada by Travel & Leisure and in Conde Nast Traveler’s 2018 Readers Choice Awards.
I met Elise Tomalty, the lodge’s marketing manager at breakfast in the lodge’s Fix Café. It was packed with guests, and locals who came for the made in-house pastries, gourmet coffees and free Wi-Fi.
I asked Elise about the quietness. Was it a lack of guests? She looked around, smiled, and said “the lodge is having one of its best months with a 98% occupancy rate in September. And we’re hosting 18 wedding parties.”
I thought she had misspoke, but she said it again, 18; one party having come from Texas. When you walk around the grounds it becomes obvious why a couple in love would choose this destination.
So where was everyone? Out and about. The lodge is in the heart of Whistler and outdoor adventures are top of the list, even at night.
Vallea Lumina, a multimedia night walk, will offer tours earlier in the evening starting in November.
Vallea Lumina on Cougar Mountain fits the bill: part X-Files spookiness, part Cirque de Soleil (there is so much all at once) guests walk a 1.5 km forest trail immersed in a light show complete with a narrative, a mystery to solve, music and dancing holograms.
My kids started the walk gripping my hands, afraid of what might be behind the next tree, but finished it skipping way ahead, their heads swivelling left and right to take it all in.
The RZR off-road ride explores the wilds of Whistler’s backcountry.
And if you want to see the valley by day the RZR Tour with The Adventure Group takes you up the mountain into the back country. Be prepared to get “wet and dirty” – don’t worry – the company provides everyone with waterproof jackets and pants. The RZRs handle the bumps and boulders on the logging roads with ease and they throw up mud and splash huge puddles spraying water high into the air. We were seat-belted in and still got jostled around – all of it good fun. At the half-way point we were treated to a spectacular view of the Soo River with the Torrent and Soo and Sootip Peaks in the background.
The next morning we were in the valley between Whistler and Blackcomb mountains for zip-lining with Ziptrek Ecotours Inc. They offer five zipline courses, from The Sasquatch which is a the longest zipline in North America at 2 km long to the Bear Tour which is promoted as being for families and first-timers, the longest line being 335 metres. On the third zipline my son noticed I looked scared.
“Every single time,” I admitted. He laughed with glee and tried to push past me so he could be first.
Ziptrek Ecotours Bear Tour is perfect for kids. It is five ziplines joined by suspension bridges, boardwalks and trails.
For him the adrenaline rush of zipping through the forest and over Fitzsimmons Creek was the “coolest thing.” By the fifth line, our guide Victoria had the kids doing aerial tricks and hanging upside down like Spiderman.
But Whistler’s offerings go far beyond adrenaline-inducing activities.
The Audain Art Museum showcases the art of British Columbia from the late 18thcentury to present day, including First Nations masks, works by E.J. Hughes and photographers Jeff Wall and Stan Douglas. It also has a kids interactive play area to keep younger children entertained.
The Audain Art Museum reveals dramatic changes in Emily Carr’s approach to painting from 1910 to 1912.
It’s more gallery than museum, as there is nothing stuffy about the spaces, 56,000 square foot in total, or the architecture.
When we were there Fresh Seeing – French Modernism and the West Coast: An exhibition of works by Emily Carr had just opened. It includes her work from 1910 to 1912 as well as excerpts from her diary. The exhibit runs until January 19, 2020.
Another not to be missed cultural experience is a visit to the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre (yes it’s in Whistler – not Squamish). The centre shares the culture of the Squamish Nation and the Lil’wat Nation with visitors.
The Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, celebrates the Lil’wat Nation and the Squamish Nation while highlighting their strong connection to their land, their cultures, and each other.
We were there for the 10 am tour which starts with a welcome song by one to the staff. Our guide, David, educated and delighted us with the ways of his people – “a people living in two worlds.” We left with a greater appreciation and understanding of our shared world.
Over the course of three days I discovered that Whistler is more than a ski and snow destination. Adventure waits in the mountains and going up the mountain can be just as exhilarating as skiing down it.
The writer was a guest of Tourism Whistler. It did not review or approve this article.