Anthony Gismondi: Telmo Rodriguez champions Spanish authenticity
Credit to Author: agismondi| Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 18:00:43 +0000
Telmo Rodriguez has never been a physically imposing figure, but the diminutive Spanish wine grower remains one of the biggest names in wine.
Born in Rioja, Rodriguez abandoned his home region in the early 1990s to search for and recover once great, abandoned vineyards and focus exclusively on native varieties. He has made many wines both inside and out of Spain’s traditional Denominaciones de Origen (DOs) appellations but always in search of “authenticity over the spectacular.”
Rodriguez and his partner Pablo Eguzkiza now produce wine in nine regions across Spain: Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro, Rueda, Cigales, Valdeorras, Cebreros, Alicante and Málaga — all under the Compañía de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez banner.
For Rodriguez, the future is more important than the present and, not surprisingly, it must be shaped by the past.
During his latest visit to Vancouver, Rodriguez spoke about his life’s work covering a wide range of topics including his much-heralded return to the family property at Remelluri in Rioja Alavesa.
His father purchased Remelluri in 1967, although its origins date back to the 14th century when monks from the Tolono monastery founded a sanctuary and a farm on the same site. As a young man, he was given a chance to make a white wine by his father (likely to keep him busy), while the “business” of producing Rioja red was conducted by others.
As it turns out, Rodriguez’s idea of making a blanco by blending nine or 10 white grapes and focusing on the site would jump-start his career path in the decades to come. Rodriguez departed Remelluri feeling as if his vision wasn’t his father’s.
“I never felt the wines the way I felt the vineyards,” he said.
Rodriguez left highly motivated to make wine that would speak to its origins and not the grapes or the winemaker.
In the intervening years, his journey has been all about place — 355 of them, and when you add up their size it comes to little more 80 hectares.
The attraction has been working with 43 native grapes and proving to anyone who will listen that the best wines of Spain do not have to reside in a legislated DO or appellation. Spain has ancient vineyards, some more than 1000 years old. These are the sites Rodriguez takes his cues from, making small, exciting, authentic wines that in his own words are “miracles.”
None of his projects are “big” by modern standards, but all are “human,” with their size limited by the space one family can manage.
Rodriguez is keen to give back to Spain’s wine heritage, so he is meeting with the children of his current wine growers trying to find a business model to entice them to stay involved in the family vineyard.
For Rodriguez, it’s the villages and the humans who work there among the ancient single vineyards that make the real wines of Spain.
We tasted several wines that have made their way to Canada, although you will have to hunt for them in British Columbia private wine shops.
From Galicia in northwest Spain, Gaba do Xil Godello 2018, and the Gaba do Xil Mencia 2015, priced in the mid-$20s are fabulous introductory wines of place, beaming with vitality.
Pegaso Granito 2011 and Pizarra 2011 are another level and price ($100 plus). Made from Garnacha grapes from 80 to 100-year-old vines — the former growing on granite the latter on schist — neither site has any discernible soil. If only wines could whisper.
We ended with Lanzaga Rioja 2013 ($49). Rodriguez has returned to Rioja determined to tell its story, vineyard by vineyard not brand by brand. Lanzaga does it all through a field blend of old bush vines grown biodynamically.
As Rodriguez would say: “We are only just learning about all the Riojas, and relating the stories we were never allowed to tell when we were young.”
Gérard Bertrand Terroir Corbières Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre 2014, Languedoc, France
$19.99 | 89/100
UPC: 3514123101768
The team at Bertrand makes a strict selection of grapes to go into this 40/40/20 mix of Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre. The nose is spicy and floral with rich blackberry jam flecked with orange peel and licorice. The tannins are dense but soft. The Bertrand fresh palate remains a constant. Ready to drink, but will age effortlessly for five years. Serve this with lamb chops. The wine is aged eight months in barriques before spending another six months at the winery in bottle before release.
Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2016, Campo de Borja, Aragon, Spain
$25.99 | 89/100
UPC: 8412423120098
Tres Picos is the top cuvée at Borsão. The fruit grows on volcanic soils and the vines — heat-loving, head-pruned Garnacha — average 30-65 years of age. The attack is rich and heady with soaring red cherry and raspberry-scented fruit with a dusty, resiny, medicine cabinet edge. It’s old school, but it is complex and the mineral, chalky notes will surprise. It is rich in the mouth, boasting 15 per cent alcohol, and is easily tamed by grilled lamb sausages. Ready to drink through 2022.
Meiomi Pinot Noir 2017, Monterey-Santa Barbara-Sonoma, California, United States
$28.99 | 87/100
UPC: 855165005076
There is no denying this wine is sweet by California Pinot standards, but in 2017 there is a semblance of balance in richness and added acidity here. The nose is open, with notes of raspberry compote, licorice, vanilla and toasted oak. The palate is soft with intense boysenberry fruit, mocha, cream and more vanilla. Ready to drink. The fruit mix is 60/23/17 Monterey/Santa Barbara/Sonoma. The Meiomi wines are now under the watchful eye of talented winemaker Melissa Stackhouse.
Vanessa Vineyard Syrah 2015, Cawston, Similkameen Valley
$34.99 | 92/100
UPC: 626990238331
The 2015 Syrah is typically expansive with intense savoury, black pepper and a twist of espresso. The attack is smooth and warm but not overpowering, with rich plummy fruit, dried black cherry and floral, stony, dusty, peppery notes in the back end — a giant of wine that can take on big dishes like a roasted leg of lamb.
Mission Hill Compendium 2012, Okanagan Valley
$82.99 | 91/100
UPC: 776545555908
Seven years down the road, you can hold or drink this now. The 2012 Compendium is a 42/41/17 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend. Vibrant and stylish it was more Bolgheri than Napa early on with its tighter leafier, floral Cabernet fruit that is awash in sagebrush and menthol seemingly intensifying its blackberry/black cherry fruit. The tannins are well managed, dense and fine-grained and now mostly soft. Perfect with roasted or grilled meats. Nice to see some aged B.C. wine in BCL stores.
Get the best of both worlds — sweet and savoury — with a serving of orange chicken. From the colourful cookbook California Living + Eating: Recipes Inspired by the Golden State, by Eleanor Maidment, this recipe is “undemanding” yet “elegant.” Whether served with a side salad or a more starchy accompaniment such as rice, pasta or potatoes, this easy recipe is sure to be a welcome sigh on the dinner table. — Aleesha Harris
3 oranges, juice from 2 (about 150 mL) and one sliced
1 tbsp English mustard powder
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons soft light brown sugar
8 chicken thighs, skin-on
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat a fan oven to 180˚C.
Heat the orange juice in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer, then let it bubble until it has reduced by half.
Put the mustard powder in a bowl, then pour in the hot orange juice, stirring until the powder has dissolved. Add the soy sauce and sugar, mixing to combine.
Arrange the chicken skin-side up in a baking tray. Pour the orange sauce over the chicken and baste the chicken a few times with the sauce.
Season the chicken skin lightly with salt and pepper, then nestle the orange slices into the pan. Bake for 35 minutes, basting the chicken twice during cooking, until cooked through.
Serve the chicken with rice or mashed potato and plenty of greens.
Serves four.
Recipe excerpted with permission from California: Living + Eating by Eleanor Maidment, published by Hardie Grant Books May 2019, RRP $29.99 Hardcover.
California-Style Orange Chicken is the perfect time to pull out some New World Chardonnay.
CedarCreek Chardonnay 2017, British Columbia, $18.99
Ripe yellow apple, pear, peach fruit flecked with butter and spice is the foil for this boisterous orange chicken dish.
Tantalus Chardonnay 2017, Okanagan Valley, $27.83
Lemon curd, toast, sweet vanilla, ripe pear and fresh pastry flavours will stand up to this flavourful chicken dish.
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