48 Hours in Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
Credit to Author: Dave Pottinger| Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2019 14:36:49 +0000
Carmel is a village in a forest overlooking a white-sand beach. The artists and writers that relocated here after the San Francisco earthquake in 1906 founded a haven of creativity, peace, and inspiration rooted in the beauty of the landscape. The narrow streets neatly frame romantic fairytale-like cottages, with not a street light or stop light to be had. Go for the coastal beauty and inspiring marine landscape, and stay for the arts, culture and award-winning culinary scene.
Friday
12 p.m. A Castle Lunch
This sustainably farmed Folktale Winery and Vineyard is situated on 15 acres in the Carmel Valley, 5 miles inland from the coast. The whitewashed winery building is reminiscent of a castle, complete with turret, and has an expansive outdoor patio bordered by blooming gardens. The pretty space and slightly European ambience enhance daily tasting flights, toasts of sparkling Rosé Brut, and an al fresco lunch of heirloom tomato salad and locally sourced charcuterie.
Folktale Winery and Vineyard is situated five miles inland from the coast.
2 p.m. Coastal Walk
Known for the rugged meeting of land and sea, Point Lobos State Natural Reserve is often referred to as the ‘crown jewel of the state park system.’ The nutrient-rich, brilliant blue coastal waters nourish marine life of all sizes, ranging from otters to dolphins and whales. Free daily public walks showcase abundant sea life, intriguing coastal geological formations, and the opportunity to feel the cool salt spray of the Pacific Ocean. A self-guided loop walk along Cypress Grove Trail reveals views of sea lions, Carmel Bay and the area’s iconic trees.
6 p.m. Mediterranean Style
Carmel’s restaurants benefit from their proximity to the agricultural bounty of California’s Central Coast and Valley, which provide ingredients that work particularly well in Mediterranean cuisine. Dinner at the popular and family-owned Dametra Cafe on Ocean Drive embraces local flavors with fresh eggplant moussaka, locally-grown artichoke ravioli pasta, and local Monterey Bay calamari. The owner has a way with a mandolin and is known to serenade diners within the rustic sunshine yellow walls of the restaurant.
Saturday
10 a.m. Coastal Drive
One of the most scenic drives in the world, 17-Mile Drive at Pebble Beach is well worth the small entry fee (which can be reimbursed if you spend money at Pebble Beach resorts). An early start ensures less traffic congestion along this magnificent byway that meanders through historic cypress groves, along rocky shorelines, and past million-dollar mansions on legendary golf courses. Prepare for frequent stops to take in the views, including the spectacular Lone Cypress.
This sentinel has stood for more than 250 years on a rocky cliff overlooking a sheltered bay where otters are frequently spotted, playing in the kelp. In August, Pebble Beach is home to the Concours d’Elegance, one of the world’s premier car shows for deep-pocketed collectors of fine automobiles.
12 p.m. Valley Lunch
A short drive from the coast into the rolling hills of pastoral Carmel Valley showcases vineyards and farm fields, including Earthbound Farm’s Organic Farm Stand. Its café serves prepared meals and snacks from produce grown onsite. Tucked away on the grounds of the 28-acre Bernardus Inn and Spa resort, the culinary team at Lucia Restaurant & Bar showcases the abundance and seasonality of the valley’s bounty, in both its food and wine culture. Pergolas and large patio umbrellas on the outdoor terrace shade diners enjoying lunch of grilled Castroville artichoke, brick oven pizzas, and Jose’s signature roasted tomato Bloody Mary.
2 p.m. On a Mission
Founded in 1770, the San Carlos Borroméo del rio Carmelo, or Carmel Mission, is one of the oldest of the Spanish missions established in California. Under the auspices of Father Junipero Serra, this National Historic Landmark was the headquarters for the expansion of the mission system throughout the state.
Carmel Mission, is one of the oldest of the Spanish missions in California.
A walk through the sunny courtyard and gardens reveals quiet corners for reflection, as well as the final resting place of Father Serra, whose remains lie underneath a sepulcher designed by Carmel artist Jo Mora. The Mission is still an active place of worship, with Mass held daily and frequent wedding services.
4 p.m. Ocean Avenue Stroll
Carmel’s narrow street grid and lack of stop lights ensure a pedestrian friendly atmosphere that encourages a leisurely stroll. The main street of Ocean Avenue is dotted with quaint gingerbread-like cottages housing high end shops, restaurants, art galleries and boutiques. Established in 1899, the Carmel Bakery has sweet and savoury baked treats like gigantic eccles cakes to sate mid-afternoon cravings.
One of the quaint shops on Ocean Avenue
Enjoy the treats in the shade of the hidden courtyard at the Carmel Plaza, or at Picadilly Park, an oasis of rare, drought-tolerant plants designed by landscape architect Walter Guthrie. From there it’s 8 blocks down a slight incline along Ocean to the soft white sand of Carmel Beach, which is both dog and swimmer friendly.
6 p.m. Michelin star cuisine
Executive Chef-Director Justin Cogley once toured the globe as a professional ice skater, and his travels opened up a world of tastes and ingredients that feature in the creative cuisine he presents at the award-winning Aubergine restaurant. The eight-course tasting menu reflects the seasonality and ingredients of the Central Coast and Valley, and may include Pacific oysters and caviar, emulsion of artichoke, chicken mousseline with morels, Wagyu beef, bone broth, and local cheeses and fruit desserts. In June 2019, Aubergine earned a coveted Michelin star, the first for a restaurant in California’s Central Coast region.
9 p.m. Carmel Beach stargazing
Caramel Beach boasts soft white sand and is both dog and swimmer friendly.
The welcome lack of ambient street lighting in Carmel village may necessitate a flashlight-assisted post-dinner walk down to the southern portion of Carmel Beach for stargazing over the water, or appreciating a waxing moon’s reflection. In daylight, the Clinton Walker House, designed by architect Frank Lloyd Wright, can be appreciated at a discrete distance at Carmel Point. Commissioned in 1948 and built in Wright’s Usonian style, this “Cabin on the Rocks” is a private residence clad in local Carmel stone, with a roof the color of the ocean and a floor plan in the shape of a hexagon.
Sunday
10 a.m. Brunch with a View
Dating to the 1800s, the historic Mission Ranch Inn was once one of the first dairies in California. Preserved and restored by former Mayor Clint Eastwood, the Inn and Restaurant sit on 22 acres of countryside, with views of Point Lobos, Carmel River Beach, the Pacific Ocean, and of grazing sheep in the adjacent meadow. The popular fixed-price brunch buffet includes various food stations with egg dishes, carving stations, salads, sides and all-American dessert favourites like cheesecake and pecan pie.
12 p.m. Carmel Art Tour
Carmel was founded by artists and writers who found inspiration in the landscape and a welcoming environment of like-minded creatives. Photographer Ansel Adams and writer Jack London took up residency here, while visiting artists included surrealist painter Salvador Dali. The Carmel Art Tour offers an immersive dive into the 21st century art scene on its 90-minute guided walking tour of 5-6 of the best exhibits and artists in town. With advanced notice, a more hands-on experience and artistic instruction can be found at a painting workshop hosted by local artist Kathy Sharpe in her studio and gallery.
In June 2019, Aubergine earned a coveted Michelin star, the first for a restaurant in California’s Central Coast region.
Where to Stay
The luxurious L’Auberge Carmel is a Relais & Chateaux property located on Monte Verde Street in the heart of Carmel village. Built in 1929, this fully updated boutique hotel of just twenty rooms is in easy walking distance to the beach, Ocean Avenue and a short drive to Pebble Beach’s 17-Mile Drive.
The old-world, Mediterranean charm of Cypress Inn has 44 bright rooms and welcomes pets throughout the hotel, including during lunch and dinner service in Terry’s Restaurant & Lounge. It was once co-owned by the late Doris Day.
Formerly a luxurious mansion built in 1905 by an artist as a gift to his wife, a member of the Ghiradelli (chocolate) family, La Playa Carmel is now a renovated 75-room hotel with secluded courtyards, expansive gardens, and a swimming pool, situated just steps from Carmel Beach.