Relax and Revel in Courtenay and the Malahat
Credit to Author: Dave Pottinger| Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2019 21:53:51 +0000
Whether you’re desperate for a wellness reset or want to chill with friends over some great food and wine, get yourself on island time in Courtenay.
Cycling has got to be the best way to explore a new place, especially on electric bikes. We joined Laurel Cronk, owner and operator of Island Joy Rides, and cruised around Comox Valley for the afternoon. Some cycling purists regard e-bikes as “cheating” but whatever gets me up that hill, I’m in. (Conversely you can hop on a hybrid bike and ride easy trails.) We breezily transitioned from flat trails along the Courtenay River to city hills, meandered country roads and sampled the local food scene.
Cycling Courtenay’s trails with Island Joy Rides.
The area is also rich in history. The seaside trail passed the Royston wrecks where 14 ships, including two 19th century windjammers, were deliberately sunk to build a breakwater in Comox Harbour.
To keep our energy up we stopped at Hot Chocolates, a 34-year-old bakery and pastry shop whose handmade artisanal chocolates are shipped worldwide. “We become part of people’s traditions. A customer just picked up chocolates for his daughter in Africa,” says manager Michele Henry, “and a guy in the Yukon regularly orders treats that we send to Japan.” After one bite of salted caramel dark chocolate, I can taste why.
Next stop was the Wayward Distillery, home of Krupnik, vodka, rum, “Unruly” gin and bee hives—all their spirits are honey-based. “We create food and booze from Mother Nature,” said co-owner Dave Brimcombe, also known as a “foul-mouthed charmer.” A complimentary tasting includes a tour and chat about the distillation process. (We returned next day for cocktails.)
Back in the saddle, we coasted along country roads to Comox Valley Mushrooms, where Stoyan (a former software engineer in Bulgaria before his current mycologist career) showed us Shiitake, Pearl Oyster and Lion’s Mane mushrooms incubating and growing in fruiting rooms. Fascinating.
Our excursion ended a few kilometres later at the Kingfisher Oceanside Resort and Spa – emphasis on spa. In addition to myriad treatments, the spa features the unique Hydropath where a hydrotherapy concierge guides you through a course of pools and jet sprays of varying water temperatures in a warm basement cave timed to have it pretty much to yourself. At the final stop you rub handmade salt scrub all over and soak in individual hot tubs before floating upstairs to the relaxation room.
We swanned over to Kingfisher’s Ocean7 Restaurant for a superb dinner. Our chilled prawn and black-sesame puree appetizer was so amazing we ordered another. And the sea scallops with white truffle gnocchi is memorable. We strolled the Serenity Gardens, wine in hand and sat by one of several fire bowls before slipping into sleep by gentle ocean waves.
Aqua Oceean 7 restaurant at Kingfisher Resort.
Three blocks of eclectic and funky shops in turn-of-the-century buildings comprise charming downtown Courtenay, including a shoe shop circa 1929, and not one big box store or chain eatery. The local favourite is the Atlas Café, and the patio is the town’s hot spot. Lunch was so terrific—generous portions of local meats, seafood and veggies—I’d come back for breakfast and dinner. But another favourite, Locals Restaurant at the Old House Hotel & Spa (originally built in 1938), was on the agenda. Chef Ronald St. Pierre’s passion is evident with products sourced by local suppliers, from the pasta maker to the bacon producer. We nabbed a table on the garden patio overlooking the Courtenay River and with a slight chill in the air our server thoughtfully brought us cozy wraps.
The Old House is appropriately billed as Vancouver Island’s best-kept secret. There’s nothing old about the rooms: spacious and elegant with fully-equipped kitchens and balconies overlooking historic gardens with black rabbits hopping around. If that’s not enough, book a relaxation massage at Ohspa –another local favourite. “One lady in her 90s comes here once a month – human touch is so good for circulation and well-being,” said masseuse Lee Jorgensen. “Self-care is important at any age.”
Villa Eyrie Atop the Malahat
Villa Eyrie Resort
Need another day? You’re a short drive away from the Villa Eyrie atop the Malahat Summit, 1,880 feet above sea level. This Italian-style villa is another best-kept secret. Opulent suites overlook Finlayson Arm and you’ll likely spot eagles at eye-level.
I was thrilled to discover the Alpina Restaurant to be on par, if not topping, Vancouver’s best restaurants. We opted for the five-course tasting menu expertly paired with local and Italian wines. Service was outstanding.
The Villa Eyrie, included in the elite “Small Luxury Hotels of the World” is the only property in Canada offering classic cars for rent. How about reveling in a 1980 red Alfa Romeo Spider or a 1970 Mercedes convertible—just $125 for eight hours? Drive the Vancouver Island Motorsport Circuit in a new Ferrari and return for a five-course Italian dinner. Bellissimo!
How To Get There
For more information, please visit tourismvi.ca
The writer was a guest of Tourism Vancouver Island, which neither read nor approved this article before publication.