Kasey Wilson: Too hot to cook? Chill out with super fresh seafood

Credit to Author: Tracey Tufnail| Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2019 18:00:44 +0000

When it’s too hot to cook, it’s time for Albacore Tuna Tartare, served icy cold drizzled with refreshing lemon oil, or Summer Melon and Prawn Salad with lively Chutney-Lime Dressing.

Vancouver’s fish markets are the place to buy the super fresh seafood these recipes require, and you’ll be hard pressed to find more inviting first courses.

Today’s third no-cook dish, Marinated Sweet Onions with Tomato Wedges, showcases the local harvest. At the Vancouver Farmers’ Market’s 17th annual Tomato Festival — Aug. 24 at Trout Lake and Aug. 25 at Kitsilano — you can sample more than 20 varieties.

Here are two ingredient notes: You can purchase lemon oil, but once you taste the homemade version here you will want to keep it on hand for use in vinaigrettes and to top pizzas, salads and roasted vegetables. Secondly, you’ll note that I call for Italian (flat-leaf) parsley. It has more flavour than the curly variety, especially if you use the leaves only. Save the stems in the freezer to use next time you make stock.

For the most exceptional herbs, look out for Glorious Organics at farmers’ markets in Vancouver. (Adapted from Cin Cin: Wood Fired Cucina by Andrew Richardson, Figure 1 Publishing, 2016.)

1 lb (450 g) sushi-grade albacore tuna

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Maldon salt

2 tbsp (30 mL) lemon oil (see recipe)

1/4 cup (60 mL) finely chopped chives

1 baguette

Extra-virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt

Chopped Italian (flat-leaf) parsley

Microgreens (beet, chard, brassicas, arugula, herbs)

Preheat the oven to 425 F (225 C).

Prepare an ice bath for the tuna by fitting one bowl inside another bowl filled with ice. Clean the tuna of any sinew and cut into 1/3-inch (8 mm) dice. Place immediately into the bowl that’s on top of the ice. Season the tuna with the lemon zest, Maldon salt, lemon oil and chives.

To make crostini, Cut the baguette into 1/8 inch (3 mm) rounds. Place on a baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Bake until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes, turning once. Season with fine sea salt.

Divide the tuna among 4 plates. Drizzle on a little more lemon oil and olive oil. Sprinkle with a pinch of Maldon salt and parsley and finish with a small handful of microgreens. Place several crostini slices on each plate and serve the rest on the side.

Serves 4.

Lemon Oil

This lemon oil, which must be made 2 days ahead, can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to a month.

Zest of 3 lemons, cut into strips (coloured part only)

3 tbsp (45 mL) fresh lemon juice

3/4 cup (185 mL) grapeseed or another neutral oil

2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) fleur de sel

Combine all the ingredients in a blender and purée. Transfer to a sealed container and refrigerate for 2 days. Strain through cheesecloth.

Makes 1 cup.

A delightful combination of prawns from the Steveston fish docks in Richmond, British Columbia, and cooling melons from the produce stands that dot the area.

3/4 cup (180 mL) mayonnaise

3/4 cup (180 mL) sour cream

1/4 cup (60 mL) fresh lime juice

1/4 cup (60 mL) mango chutney, minced

1 tbsp (15 mL) curry paste or 4 tsp (20 mL) curry powder

2 medium cantaloupes

1 large honeydew melon

1 lb (450 g) cooked prawns, peeled and deveined

Fresh mint leaves

In a large bowl, combine mayonnaise, sour cream, lime juice, chutney and curry. Chill.

Peel and seed melons. Cube flesh or cut into rounds with a melon baller.

Just before serving, add melon and prawns to the mayonnaise mixture and toss gently. Garnish with mint.

Serves 6-8.

This is an unbeatable combination to serve with grilled meats or as a first course with fresh mozzarella.

1 cup (250 mL) olive oil    

1/4 cup (60 mL) seasoned rice vinegar

2 tbsp (30 mL) lemon juice

2 tbsp (30 mL) minced fresh basil

2 tbsp (30 ml) minced Italian (flat-leaf) parsley leaves plus more for garnish

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 large sweet onions, peeled and sliced

6 ripe tomatoes, cut into wedges

Combine oil, vinegar, lemon juice, basil, 2 tbsp (30 mL) parsley and salt and pepper to taste in a small lidded container. Cover tightly and shake vigorously until marinade is emulsified. Pour over onions and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.

Just before serving, arrange tomatoes slices in a shallow bowl and strew onion slices over them. Pour marinade over all and garnish with minced parsley.

Serves 6-8.

To preserve their flavour, tomatoes should be stored at room temperature. If they’re still attached to the vine, set them stem end up on the counter. If they’ve been cleanly picked, set them stem end down. This prevents moisture from escaping and bacteria from entering through the stem scar, prolonging shelf life.

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