Kasey Wilson: Recipes for the salad days of summer
Credit to Author: Tracey Tufnail| Date: Wed, 07 Aug 2019 18:00:03 +0000
The French take great pride in their salads, so it’s saying something that the Caesar salad — attributed to Tijuana, Mexico, restaurateur Caesar Cardini — is the only North American version they have adopted as their own.
The classic combination of romaine, anchovies, garlic and Parmesan cheese has special meaning for Ned Bell, Ocean Wise executive chef and founder of the sustainability group Chefs for Oceans. A shrimp Caesar salad was the first dish he made as a culinary student, and it was such a hit with his family that he prepared it every week for a year.
Bell shares that story and recipe in Lure: Sustainable Seafood Recipes from the West Coast. Rounding out our salad days theme is one of my summer go-to dishes, an arugula salad with grilled corn and roasted peppers dressed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and topped with croutons slathered with goat cheese.
This dish brings together the sweet tenderness of shrimp, the crunch of romaine hearts and the zing and subtle caramelized notes of grilled lemons. (Adapted from Lure: Sustainable Seafood Recipes from the West Coast by Ned Bell with Valerie Howes, Figure 1 Publishing, paperback, 2019.)
Caesar Vinaigrette:
1 head garlic
3/4 cup (180 mL) olive oil (divided), plus extra for drizzling the garlic
1 sprig rosemary
2 1/2 tbsp (37.5 mL) red wine vinegar
1 1/2 tbsp (22.5 mL) Dijon mustard
1 1/2 tsp (7.5 mL) whole grain mustard
1 oil-packed anchovy
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup (125 mL) olive-oil mayonnaise
1 tsp (5 mL) sea salt
1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) coarsely ground pepper
Croutons:
1/2 sourdough baguette or other artisan bread, cut into 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) slices
1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil rosemary oil (see above)
Sea salt and coarsely ground pepper
Salad:
1/4 lb (114 g) Parmesan cheese (divided)
1 lemon, halved
Olive oil, for brushing
2 romaine hearts, leaves separated
Sea salt and coarsely ground pepper
1/2 lb (226 g) cooked, hand-peeled pink shrimp, chilled
8 white marinated anchovies, for garnish
To make vinaigrette, preheat oven to 400 F (205 C). Slice off the top third of the garlic head to expose the cloves. Set on a sheet of aluminum foil and drizzle with a little olive oil. Wrap in the foil and roast for 30 to 40 minutes, until cloves are soft.
Meanwhile, heat 3/4 cup (180 mL) olive oil and rosemary in a small saucepan set over medium heat. Bring to a simmer. Remove pan from heat and set aside for 20 minutes or until the rosemary is infused into the oil. Discard rosemary.
Squeeze half the roasted garlic out of the papery skins into a blender or food processor. (Save the rest for another use.) Add vinegar, both mustards, anchovies, lemon zest and juice and 1/2 cup (125 mL) rosemary oil. Set aside the remaining 1/4 cup (60 mL) for the croutons. Stir in the mayo and season to taste with salt and pepper. Blend for about 1 minute, until emulsified. (Dressing can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
To make croutons, preheat oven to 375 F (190 C). Brush bread slices with rosemary oil until evenly coated. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes or until golden. Tear into pieces.
To make salad, reduce oven temperature to 325 F (160 C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Finely grate half the Parmesan. You should have about 1 cup (250 mL). Spread it into a flat circle on the baking sheet. Bake for 12 minutes or until golden brown. Set aside to cool, then peel off the paper and break the cheese crisp into pieces.
Heat a skillet over medium-high heat. Brush the cut sides of the lemons with olive oil. Place cut side down onto the pan and sear for 2 to 4 minutes or until caramelized and golden.
In a large bowl, toss the romaine and half the croutons with enough dressing to coat. Squeeze the caramelized lemons over the bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste and toss again.
Transfer the salad to a serving bowl or platter. Arrange the shrimp and crispy Parmesan pieces on top. Shave the remaining Parmesan with a vegetable peeler and sprinkle over the salad. Garnish with the remaining croutons and anchovies.
Serves 4.
1 red bell pepper
1 yellow bell pepper
1 orange bell pepper
2 large ears fresh sweet corn, husked
2 tsp (10 mL) Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, minced
3 tbsp (45 mL) balsamic vinegar
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup (60 mL) olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup (60 mL) fresh basil
12 baguette slices, 1/2-inch (1.3 cm), lightly toasted
6 oz (170 mL) fresh goat cheese (chèvre)
4 to 6 cups (1 to 1 1/2 L) tightly packed torn arugula
Roast the peppers over hot coals or under a broiler, turning often, until skin is charred and blistered. Enclose in a paper bag and set aside for 15 minutes to steam. Peel, seed and dice peppers. Set aside.
Broil or grill the corn, turning so that each side browns lightly. Cut kernels from cobs. (See Kitchen Hack.) Set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk mustard, garlic, vinegar and lemon juice. Slowly whisk in oil. Season with salt and pepper and toss in basil, roasted peppers and corn. Set aside.
Preheat broiler or grill. Spread toasted baguette slices with goat cheese and broil or grill for 1 minute or until the cheese is warm.
Add arugula to roasted pepper mixture and toss well. Divide among individual salad plates and garnish with warm goat cheese croutons.
Serve 4 to 6.
Place a small bowl upside down inside a larger bowl. Steady the wide end of a corn cob on top of the overturned bowl and slice downward to remove kernels. The smaller bowl elevates the cob so you can get a clean slice and the larger bowl catches the kernels.
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